By Bagehot
IN ADDITION to the Bagehot column, I have a brief article in the Britain section this week, looking at a cheering London trend: the emergence of a growing number of seriously tasty Chinese restaurants. Long, long ago, Bagehot lived in Beijing for a few years, and the hunt for real Chinese food—rather than the gloopified, muted inventions found in most Chinese restaurants in the West—remains something of an obsession.